Proper Care and Install Guidelines
Replacing spark plugs should be almost as simple as changing bulbs, however it's not. Bulb changing doesn't require the use of a gapping or socket wrench utilities. A deep socket that fits a plug is not a proper plug socket. A spark plug socket has a couple of things that distinguish it with a deep socket.
The first is a foam rubber fit that cushions the plug while it is in the socket. Second is the hexagonal part around the top socket. The hexagonal area allows a wrench to fit on the socket when there's insufficient room for a ratchet. Bikes usually have plenty of clearance for torque wrenches or ratchet, and yet the capability to support a wrench to the socket is useful for motorcycles with Fat Bob fuel tanks and a few automotive uses (like a Corvette having headers).
For several years there have been two common sizes of spark plug sockets. Shovelheads and 80" Big Twin Evolution engines need a 3/4" spark plug socket, and Evo Sportsters and Twin Cams require a 5/8" one. Then some thing transpired: plugs that needed an 11/16" socket appeared on the market, and 11/16" spark plug sockets are usually uncommon. We've heard people fit a strip of foam wrapping (the product that's often used to insulate hot water pipes) inside of an 11/16" deep socket to make their own. This method works and is a cost-effective solution to improvise a tool for people that does not replace a lot of 11/16" spark plugs.
Spark Plug Gaps
Spark plug gap is essential for proper firing. Some people assume spark plugs are pre-gapped from the manufacturing plant, which isn't often the case. But even when plugs are already gapped, motion through shipping could possibly make the gap several thousandths inches shorter. Gapping a plug is not rocket science. All it takes are the ideal tools, some practice, and a little bit of dedication.
To begin with, pliers and a feeler gauge usually are not the right tools. Our preferred gapper is the simple, good-old wire-loop tool where each wire loop represents a distinct size of the gap, and the steel tabs suit various ground electrodes. Our very least preferred is the disc with the ramp throughout the edge. One problem with the disc style is that it exerts pressure in the core electrode while gapping. The other disadvantage is that often one side of the ground electrode may end up somewhat further out from the middle electrode. Screamin' Edge and SplitFire spark plugs, one part of the ground electrode's prong will be a bit higher than the other.
Focusing on 3 simple guidelines will allow you to properly gap spark plugs. Initially, don't flex the center electrode. Next, never ever flex the ground electrode sideways. Use the gapping tool to slowly move the end of the ground electrode closer to or farther from the end of the core electrode. Finally, check out the correct spacing by moving the correct wire loop in between the gap. The gap is right once you feel a little amount of friction as the wire moves through the gap.
Swapping Spark Plugs
Just before removing a spark plug, ensure that the engine has cooled down, and then start using a burst of compressed air to blow dust and dirt from the small area around the plug. A ratchet and a spark plug socket are the suggested utilities for this particular portion of the task. Once carefully taking out the spark plug wire by drawing on the boot, not the wire, I remove the aged spark plug with a spark plug socket and ratchet by turning them counterclockwise.
As soon as the unwanted and old plugs are out, it is time to put in the properly spaced plugs. Start out by putting a bit of lube (anti-seize) on the threads for each plug. Current Harley Davidsons have steel shell spark plugs and aluminum heads. Repetitive heating and cooling of the heads may cause a chemical reaction between the aluminum cylinder head and steel plug shell. This results in an effect like it has been welded.
Soon after applying the lubricant (anti-seize) around the spark plug threads, begin turning the spark plug tighten manner to the head using your fingers rather than using a spark plug socket or ratchet. A best practice that lessens the possibility of getting a spark plug that is cross threaded and the pricey damage that may occur. Once the brand new plug is finger tight, reach for the plug tools, the torque spec for plugs in a TC 88 is 11-18 ft-lbs., so split the main difference and opt for 15 ft-lbs.
That way, if the torque wrench is a bit off for some reason, you'll still remain within the required spec. Is proper twisting vital for plug set up? Basically, yes! If the plug is too loose, heat transfer within the cylinder head can be lessened, and the spark plug can overheat. Whenever a plug remains really loose, it could find its way out from the head caused by combustion pressure and vibrations. And that's very unhealthy. Plugs that are not tight enough also hold responsibility for combustion chamber debris showing up in the threads of the plug hole.
At the other extreme, turning plugs excessively tight will cause other problems. If a spark plug is over tightened, it's likely that it'll be tougher to remove. Over tightening may also grind the gasket within a seat plug. Extreme over tightening can damage the threads within the head and has always been the cause of deterioration.
Without a torque wrench, make the new spark plug finger tight and utilize a ratchet to carefully tighten the spark plug another quarter to half a turn. This method is certainly a lot less precise as compared to having a torque wrench, but it will give you anywhere in the 11-18 ft-lbs. limit.
This season, bike runs will kick off from all over the country. The vast majority of motorcycle drivers will undoubtedly be assembling for 1 week long festivity all expressing their fascination with bikes. You will hear a number of tales and building tips to chat about with new friends while you drive the days with the bike week. Make sure to ride safe and wear the required safety equipment like carbon fiber helmets. Good luck and have a wonderful ride.
Replacing spark plugs should be almost as simple as changing bulbs, however it's not. Bulb changing doesn't require the use of a gapping or socket wrench utilities. A deep socket that fits a plug is not a proper plug socket. A spark plug socket has a couple of things that distinguish it with a deep socket.
The first is a foam rubber fit that cushions the plug while it is in the socket. Second is the hexagonal part around the top socket. The hexagonal area allows a wrench to fit on the socket when there's insufficient room for a ratchet. Bikes usually have plenty of clearance for torque wrenches or ratchet, and yet the capability to support a wrench to the socket is useful for motorcycles with Fat Bob fuel tanks and a few automotive uses (like a Corvette having headers).
For several years there have been two common sizes of spark plug sockets. Shovelheads and 80" Big Twin Evolution engines need a 3/4" spark plug socket, and Evo Sportsters and Twin Cams require a 5/8" one. Then some thing transpired: plugs that needed an 11/16" socket appeared on the market, and 11/16" spark plug sockets are usually uncommon. We've heard people fit a strip of foam wrapping (the product that's often used to insulate hot water pipes) inside of an 11/16" deep socket to make their own. This method works and is a cost-effective solution to improvise a tool for people that does not replace a lot of 11/16" spark plugs.
Spark Plug Gaps
Spark plug gap is essential for proper firing. Some people assume spark plugs are pre-gapped from the manufacturing plant, which isn't often the case. But even when plugs are already gapped, motion through shipping could possibly make the gap several thousandths inches shorter. Gapping a plug is not rocket science. All it takes are the ideal tools, some practice, and a little bit of dedication.
To begin with, pliers and a feeler gauge usually are not the right tools. Our preferred gapper is the simple, good-old wire-loop tool where each wire loop represents a distinct size of the gap, and the steel tabs suit various ground electrodes. Our very least preferred is the disc with the ramp throughout the edge. One problem with the disc style is that it exerts pressure in the core electrode while gapping. The other disadvantage is that often one side of the ground electrode may end up somewhat further out from the middle electrode. Screamin' Edge and SplitFire spark plugs, one part of the ground electrode's prong will be a bit higher than the other.
Focusing on 3 simple guidelines will allow you to properly gap spark plugs. Initially, don't flex the center electrode. Next, never ever flex the ground electrode sideways. Use the gapping tool to slowly move the end of the ground electrode closer to or farther from the end of the core electrode. Finally, check out the correct spacing by moving the correct wire loop in between the gap. The gap is right once you feel a little amount of friction as the wire moves through the gap.
Swapping Spark Plugs
Just before removing a spark plug, ensure that the engine has cooled down, and then start using a burst of compressed air to blow dust and dirt from the small area around the plug. A ratchet and a spark plug socket are the suggested utilities for this particular portion of the task. Once carefully taking out the spark plug wire by drawing on the boot, not the wire, I remove the aged spark plug with a spark plug socket and ratchet by turning them counterclockwise.
As soon as the unwanted and old plugs are out, it is time to put in the properly spaced plugs. Start out by putting a bit of lube (anti-seize) on the threads for each plug. Current Harley Davidsons have steel shell spark plugs and aluminum heads. Repetitive heating and cooling of the heads may cause a chemical reaction between the aluminum cylinder head and steel plug shell. This results in an effect like it has been welded.
Soon after applying the lubricant (anti-seize) around the spark plug threads, begin turning the spark plug tighten manner to the head using your fingers rather than using a spark plug socket or ratchet. A best practice that lessens the possibility of getting a spark plug that is cross threaded and the pricey damage that may occur. Once the brand new plug is finger tight, reach for the plug tools, the torque spec for plugs in a TC 88 is 11-18 ft-lbs., so split the main difference and opt for 15 ft-lbs.
That way, if the torque wrench is a bit off for some reason, you'll still remain within the required spec. Is proper twisting vital for plug set up? Basically, yes! If the plug is too loose, heat transfer within the cylinder head can be lessened, and the spark plug can overheat. Whenever a plug remains really loose, it could find its way out from the head caused by combustion pressure and vibrations. And that's very unhealthy. Plugs that are not tight enough also hold responsibility for combustion chamber debris showing up in the threads of the plug hole.
At the other extreme, turning plugs excessively tight will cause other problems. If a spark plug is over tightened, it's likely that it'll be tougher to remove. Over tightening may also grind the gasket within a seat plug. Extreme over tightening can damage the threads within the head and has always been the cause of deterioration.
Without a torque wrench, make the new spark plug finger tight and utilize a ratchet to carefully tighten the spark plug another quarter to half a turn. This method is certainly a lot less precise as compared to having a torque wrench, but it will give you anywhere in the 11-18 ft-lbs. limit.
This season, bike runs will kick off from all over the country. The vast majority of motorcycle drivers will undoubtedly be assembling for 1 week long festivity all expressing their fascination with bikes. You will hear a number of tales and building tips to chat about with new friends while you drive the days with the bike week. Make sure to ride safe and wear the required safety equipment like carbon fiber helmets. Good luck and have a wonderful ride.
About the Author:
Always remember that it's critical to be certain that you cruise with your bike with safety. Always make sure that you always wear authentic carbon fiber helmets.
